Comfort reigns at this understated yet modern eatery whose Mexico City–born chef, Ernesto Martinez, puts a clever Latin spin on American classics. Fried chicken comes with cheddar-jalapeño corn bread, for instance, and chipotle aioli accompanies the oyster po'boy. Martinez plays things straight with the Caesar salad, Dungeness crab Louis, and Zinfandel-braised lamb shank at dinner, but at his popular Sunday brunch offers fried-chicken-and-Belgian-waffle sliders and
chilaquiles with eggs and Spanish sausage along with eggs Florentine and other standards. For the most relaxed experience, stroll in at lunchtime midweek and linger over local wine from the extensive list.