Comfort foods aren't often described as nuanced, but the term aptly describes the locally sourced preparations at this modest roadside restaurant. Take the fries (but not too many): they're cooked in duck fat and served with malt-vinegar aioli, lending them a richness that lingers pleasingly in the memory. There's lots of frying going on—even Cornish game hen gets the treatment. Up against these dishes, the fish selections, wild-caught salmon, perhaps, or petrale sole or mahimahi—seem almost dainty. The appealing appetizers include spicy ahi tuna with a ponzu sauce, avocado mousse, and crispy wontons. The signature dessert, a creamy, high-test tiramisu, is amply dosed with mascarpone, rum, and espresso.