Unvarnished oak flooring, wrought-iron accents, and a vaulted white ceiling create a polished yet rustic ambience for the playfully ambitious cuisine of chef Shane McAnelly. Starters such as pork-belly biscuits might at first glance seem frivolous, but the silky flavor blend—maple glaze, pickled onions, and chipotle mayo playing off feathery biscuit halves—signals a supremely capable tactician at work. Likewise with vegetable sides such as fried brussels sprouts perched upon a perky kimchi puree, or moist and crispy buttermilk fried quail. House-made pasta dishes favor rich country flavors—the robust Sonoma lamb sugo (sauce) with Pecorino-Romano tickles the entire palate—while desserts named The Candy Bar and Donuts O' the Day aim to please (and do). The canny wine selections ably support McAnelly's cuisine.