The food at chef Michael Chiarello's trattoria is simultaneously soulful and inventive, transforming local ingredients into regional Italian dishes with a twist. The antipasti shine: you can order grilled short-rib meatballs, house-made charcuterie, or incredibly fresh fish. Potato gnocchi might be served with pumpkin fonduta (Italian-style fondue) and roasted root vegetables, and hearty main courses such as a grilled acorn-fed pork shoulder loin with a honey-mustard
glaze might be accompanied by cinnamon stewed plums and crispy black kale. The vibe is festive, with exposed-brick walls and an open kitchen, but service is spot-on, and the wine list includes interesting choices from Italy and California.