There was a time when Bistro Ralph was the good restaurant in downtown Healdsburg, and long before the concept of "fresh, simple, local" became culinary gospel, that hallowed refrain coursed through the kitchen of this northern Sonoma County pioneer. The menu shifts seasonally. In spring, for example, you might find extraordinary grilled marinated asparagus; at other times look for grilled Columbia River sturgeon or Dungeness crab ravioli. Standbys include fried Szechuan-pepper calamari, chicken livers (locals love 'em), lamb burgers, and cassoulet. The wines are all from Healdsburg, but with dozens of wineries within city limits, the selection is more than sufficiently varied.