Celebrity Spanish chef José Andrés conquers L.A. with a multifaceted concept that includes two dining rooms (one classic, one modern), a cocktail bar stocked with liquid nitrogen, and a flashy pâtisserie. Half of the menu is dedicated to traditional Spanish tapas: bacalao (salt cod) fritters with honey aïoli, creamy chicken croquetas, and plates of chorizo or prized jamón Ibérico. The other half involves some wild inventions of molecular gastronomy, including
"liquid" olives (created through a technique called spherification), and an ethereal version of the traditional tortilla Española in which an egg is cooked slowly at 63 degrees, just short of coagulation. A splendid list of Spanish wines is offered. For dessert, the patisserie offers playful items like beet meringue with pistachios and chocolate lollipops.