Celebrity Spanish chef José Andrés conquers L.A. with a multifaceted concept that includes two dining rooms (one old-school, one modern, each with a tapas bar), a cocktail bar stocked with liquid nitrogen, and a flashy pâtisserie. There are even roaming pushcarts dispensing foie gras wrapped in cotton candy. Half of the menu is dedicated to traditional Spanish tapas: creamy chicken croquetas, bacalao (salt cod) fritters with honey aïoli, and plates of chorizo or prized jamón Ibérico. The other half involves some wild inventions of molecular gastronomy inspired by Andrés' former mentor Ferran Adrià of world-famous El Bulli restaurant. Among the latter are "liquid" olives (created through a technique called spherification), and an ethereal version of the traditional tortilla Española in which an egg is cooked very slowly at 63 degrees, just short of coagulation. A splendid list of Spanish wines is offered, and for dessert, items like beet meringue with pistachios and chocolate lollipops await.
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