Further fueling the transformation of unglamorous Culver City into a not-to-be-missed dining destination is this smart-looking restaurant where Gino Angelini (Angelini Osteria) protégé Jason Travi celebrates flavors from both the French and Italian countryside. Ebullient patrons begin with platters of cold seafood, boudin noir with Dijon-crème fraîche, or porcini salad before moving on to pastas, lamb spezzatino stew, or steak frites. The soul-warming fare is
enhanced by 50-plus wines under $50 and desserts designed by Travi's wife, Miho. The casually sophisticated stone-clad dining room, with tables spilling onto the sidewalk, suits varied occasions.