San Vicente Boulevard is lined with trendy trattorias, but Pecorino presents a delightful compromise between old-world charm and modern sensibilities. Wrought-iron chandeliers hang from a beamed ceiling above a room dressed up with white-linen tablecloths and red velvet curtains. The pleasures of the namesake sheep's milk cheese are explored in simply sauced pastas and the Abruzzese–style lamb casserole. A huge baked onion filled with eggplant, raisins, and pine nuts
is a terrific vegetarian beginning; a plate of pecorino cheeses from every corner of Italy is a perfect finish.