This family-owned café serves the subtle cooking of one of Mexico's most respected culinary regions, warm and wonderful Oaxaca. The flavors here are intense without being fiery. Try this version of chiles rellenos (bright green chili peppers stuffed with chicken, raisins, and nuts). Don't miss any of the complex moles ladled over chicken, pork, salmon, or extra-tender stewed goat. For dessert, there's fried sweet plantains topped with crème fraîche that's delicioso.