Forget any and all preconceived options of what Chinese food should look and taste like—Kang's cuisine is nouvelle Chinese. Start with tender slices of veal on a bed of enoki mushrooms, topped with a tangle of quick-fried shoestring yams; or sea bass with kumquats and passion-fruit sauce. Even familiar dishes, such as the crispy sesame beef, result in nearly revelatory culinary experiences. And don't shy away from desserts like sweet bean-curd crepes or delicate mandarin
orange cheesecake, which are elegantly light.