Despite a minor galaxy of crystal chandeliers, Ortolan attempts to take the pretentiousness out of haute cuisine. Here designer jeans outnumber designer suits. But chef Christophe Émé—whose career has exposed him to a constellation of Michelin stars—maintains impeccable standards in the kitchen with dishes such as Napa Valley escargots with lettuce emulsion and Parmesan crust, lobster spaghetti with sea urchin sauce, and what may be the silkiest foie gras in the city. Many creations are dramatically presented on stone slabs or in unique vessels. The one thing even Émé can't get you is the namesake game bird; it's endangered.
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