Crustacean

Crustacean Review

A perennially hot scene, this head-turning venue of San Francisco's An family is a surreal reproduction of colonial Vietnam. Exotic fish swim in a floor-to-ceiling aquarium and through a glass-topped "river" sunk into the marble floor underfoot, which meanders toward the bar. The French-influenced Southeast Asian menu includes lemongrass-scented bouillabaisse and filet mignon with ponzu glaze. Colossal tiger prawns and whole Dungeness crab simmered in sake, Chardonnay, and Cognac parade out of the "secret kitchen" where only An family members are allowed, thereby protecting treasured recipes.