Celebrity Spanish chef José Andrés has conquered L.A. with a multifaceted concept restaurant that includes two dining rooms (one classic, one modern), a cocktail bar stocked with liquid nitrogen, and a flashy patisserie. Half of the menu is dedicated to traditional Spanish tapas: bacalao (salt cod) fritters with honey aioli, creamy chicken croquetas, and plates of chorizo or prized jamón Ibérico. The other half involves wild inventions of molecular gastronomy, including "liquid" olives (created through a technique called spherification) and an ethereal version of the traditional tortilla Española in which an egg is cooked slowly at 63°C, just short of what would produce coagulation. Splendid Spanish vintages grace the wine list. For dessert, the patisserie serves up playful items such as beet meringue with pistachios, foie gras cotton candy, and chocolate lollipops.