This casual venue elevates the humble "pizza joint." With traditional Mediterranean items like white anchovies, squash blossoms, and Gorgonzola, the pies—thin-crusted delights with golden, blistered edges—are more Campania than California, and virtually every one is a winner. Antipasti include simple salads, roasted bone marrow, and platters of salumi (cured meats). All sing with vibrant flavors thanks to superb market-fresh ingredients, and daily specials may include favorites like lasagna. Like the dishes on the menu, the wines on the Italian-only list are both interesting and affordable. Walk-ins are welcome at the bar.