After drawing an almost cultlike following from a stand in the Farmers Market, Lotería! takes on Hollywood with a sleek sit-down restaurant with essentially the same time-tested menu. Start with banana squash and corn soup or chicharron de queso (a crunchy, paper-thin sheet of addictive griddle-toasted cheese) with guacamole while sipping on the tequila you've selected from a long list. Then tuck into tacos or burritos stuffed with mushrooms and cheese, meatballs
in tomato-chipotle sauce, or cochinita pibil (Yucatán-style pork). To tame the heat, nothing soothes the palate like its homemade Mexican ice cream.