This head-turning venue is a surreal reproduction of colonial Vietnam. Exotic fish swim in a floor-to-ceiling aquarium and through a glass-topped "river" sunk into the marble floor, which meanders toward the bar. The French-influenced Southeast Asian menu includes lemongrass–scented bouillabaisse and filet mignon with a ponzu glaze. Colossal tiger prawns and whole Dungeness crab simmered in sake, Chardonnay, and Cognac parade out of the "secret kitchen" where only the
owner's family members are allowed, thereby protecting treasured recipes.