Laurel Canyon and Mulholland Drive

Laurel Canyon and Mulholland Drive

The hills that separate Hollywood from the Valley are more than a symbolic dividing line between the city slickers and the suburbanites; the hills have a community in their own right and a reputation as a bohemian artists' hideaway for those who have been fortunate enough to make a living at their creative pursuits. The 2002 movie Laurel Canyon provided one view of the lifestyle of one kind of Canyon dweller—freethinking entertainment-industry movers and shakers who seek a peaceful refuge in their tree-shaded homes. By day they're churning out business deals and working on projects; by night they're living it up with private parties high above the bustle of the city streets.

Though you may not get to see all the goings-on inside these homes, you can use your imagination as you take a drive through Laurel Canyon and pass estates and party pads dating back to the silent film era, such as that of Clara Bow, on to music icons of the '60s and '70s (including Brian Wilson and Frank Zappa). Canyon Country Store (2108 Laurel Canyon Blvd., 90046. 323/654-8091), at the Canyon's halfway point, is an institution of hippie-esque good vibes filled with household essentials and specialty foods that include vegetarian items and British imports. If you stop for dinner at Pace (2100 Laurel Canyon Blvd., 90046. 323/654-8583), below the store, there's a good chance of spotting a movie star on a low-key date. This cozy, soft-lighted setting is a perfect spot for a romantic dinner nestled among the canyon hills and lots of Hollywood history. Because the restaurant is popular with the locals, make weekend reservations at least a few days in advance.

A few steps away from Pace is the house once occupied by Jim Morrison. Take a drive up Lookout Mountain and you'll find yourself on the grounds that inspired resident Joni Mitchell to pen "Ladies of the Canyon." If you have time to cruise Mulholland Drive, you'll get breathtaking views that can help take you away from the city's relentless pulse.