Surf's Up

Surf's Up

Nothing captures the laid-back cool of California quite like surfing. It arrived here in the early 1900s, when land developer Henry Huntington staged a surfing demonstration at Redondo Beach to promote the opening of his Redondo-Los Angeles railroad line. Surf clubs began to form up and down the coast, and Hawaiian legends like Duke Kahanamoku and George Freeth fed the frenzy by settling in Southern California. By the late 1950s, it was officially a California way of life, made even more popular by films such as Gidget and Beach Blanket Bingoand the crooning songs of the Beach Boys. Today, it's still a strong part of the culture, especially in the enclaves of Malibu, Palos Verdes, and Huntington Beach, where you'll find everyone from middle-aged studio executives to local teenagers catching a wave.

Those wanting to sample the surf here should keep a few things in mind before getting wet. First, surfers can be notoriously territorial. Beginners should avoid Palos Verdes and Third Point, at the north end of Malibu Lagoon State Beach, where veterans rule the waves. Once in the water, be as polite and mellow as possible. Give other surfers plenty of space—do not cut them off—and avoid swimmers. Beware of rocks and undertows. Surfing calls for caution: that huge piece of flying fiberglass beneath you could kill someone. Also keep in mind that your welcome in the water most likely won't be a shining example of gender equality. Beginning female surfers often get encouragement from local hotshots. A hapless guy, however, should expect a few sneers.

If you're not a strong swimmer, think twice before jumping in; fighting the surf to where the waves break is a strenuous proposition. The best and safest way to learn is by taking a lesson.