L.A. on the Fast Track

L.A. on the Fast Track

Once upon a time, Los Angeles had an enviable public transportation system known as the Pacific Electric Red Cars, trolleys that made it possible to get around this sprawling city without an automobile. In the mid-1900s, the last of the Red Cars disappeared, and Los Angeles lost itself in the car culture. Make no mistake, the car culture is here to stay; an afternoon in rush-hour traffic will drive that point home. But for the last few years, a sleek new rail system has emerged. You can now take a subway through parts of Downtown Los Angeles, Hollywood, Pasadena, and North Hollywood.

The Metro Red Line subway, which is the most useful for exploring parts of the city, starts at Downtown's Union Station, then curves northwest to Hollywood and on to Universal City and North Hollywood. The Blue and Green light rail lines are geared for commuters. The latest addition, the Gold Line, goes from Union Station up to Pasadena.

Though it takes some planning, using the Metro can spare you time you might otherwise spend stuck in traffic—if the stations are convenient, that is. If you're worried about being caught in the subway during an earthquake, keep in mind that stations and tunnels were built with reinforced steel and were engineered to withstand a magnitude-8 earthquake.

The Metro Rail stations are worth exploring themselves, and you can sign up for a free docent-led MTA art tour (213/922-2738. www.mta.net), which departs from the Hollywood & Highland and Union Stations at 10 AM the first weekend of each month. You'll receive a free day pass to ride the rails as you visit the colorful murals, sculptures, and architectural elements of each station, designed to carry out themes of Los Angeles history. The Universal City station is next to the site of the Campo de Caheunga, where Mexico relinquished control of California to the United States in 1847, and the station features a time line of the area's past done in the traditional style of colorful Mexican folk art.

The North Hollywood station also celebrates local history: native Gabrielino culture, many immigrant communities, Amelia Earhart (a local), Western wear designer Nudie, and the history of transportation in Los Angeles County. The station at Hollywood Boulevard and Highland plays off Tinseltown fantasies, encouraging travelers to look beyond the subway station.

The Hollywood and Vine station has recycled film reels on the ceiling, original Paramount Pictures film projectors from the 1930s, and floor paving that looks like the yellow brick road from The Wizard of Oz. There are imposing, glass-clad columns juxtaposed with rock formations at the Vermont and Beverly station. The old Red Car trolley makes a guest appearance in the Hollywood and Western station.