Sports in Los Angeles

L.A.'s near-perfect climate allows sports enthusiasts the privilege of being outside year-round. The City of Los Angeles Department of Recreation and Parks (200 N. Main St., Suite 1350, 90012. 866/452-2489 or 213/473-3231. www.cityofla.org/rap) has information on city parks. For information on county parks contact the Los Angeles County Department of Parks and Recreation (433 S. Vermont Ave., 90020. 213/738-2961. parks.co.la.ca.us).

Los Angeles is home to some of the greatest franchises in pro basketball and baseball, and the greater L.A. area has two pro teams in each of those sports, as well as hockey. Who knows if L.A.'s quest for a pro football team to replace the Rams and Raiders will succeed—despite years of negotiations with the NFL to bring a team to the Los Angeles Coliseum, a deal seemed unlikely at this writing. In the meantime, there's always the rough-and-tumble arena football of the Avengers, as well as the ferocious college rivalry of USC and UCLA. Ticketmaster (213/480-3232. www.ticketmaster.com) sells tickets to most sporting events in town.

Baseball

You can watch the Dodgers take on their National League rivals while munching on pizza, tacos, or a foot-long "Dodger dog" at one of the game's most comfortable ball parks, Dodger Stadium (1000 Elysian Park Ave., exit off I-110, Pasadena Fwy., 90012. 866/363-4377 ticket information. www.dodgers.com). The Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim won the World Series in 2002, the first time since the team formed in 1961. For Angels ticket information, contact Angel Stadium of Anaheim (2000 Gene Autry Way, Anaheim, 92805. 714/663-9000. www.angelsbaseball.com). Several colleges in the area also have baseball teams worth watching, especially USC, which has been a perennial source of major-league talent.

Basketball

College

Most of these schools put consistently competitive women's fives, as well as men's, on their respective courts. The Trojans of the University of Southern California (213/740-4672. usctrojans.cstv.com) play at Galen Center (3400 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, 90007. 213/748-6136). The Bruins of the University of California at Los Angeles (310/825-2101. uclabruins.collegesports.com) play at Pauley Pavilion on the UCLA campus. These schools go head to head in Pac 10 competition each year. A lesser-known team that has lately stirred the waters is Malibu's own Waves of Pepperdine University (310/506-4000. www.pepperdine.edu). The Titans of California State University at Fullerton (Cal State Fullerton, 800 N. State College Blvd., Fullerton, 92831. 714/278-2783. www.fullerton.edu) are experiencing an upswing under coach Bob Burton and made it to the NCAA tournament in 2008. Another local team worth watching is the Lions at Loyola Marymount University (2700 LMU Dr., Westchester, 90045. 310/338-6095. www.lmulions.com).

Professional

L.A.'s pro basketball teams play at the Staples Center. The Los Angeles Lakers (310/426-6000. www.nba.com/lakers) still attract a loyal following that includes celebrity fans like Jack Nicholson, Tyra Banks, and Leonardo DiCaprio. Despite a series of off-the-court conflicts in recent years, the team remains one of the NBA's most successful franchises with 14 NBA championships under its belt. L.A.'s "other" team, the much-maligned but newly revitalized Clippers (888/895-8662. www.nba.com/clippers), sells tickets that are generally cheaper and easier to get than those for Lakers games. The Los Angeles Sparks (310/426-6031. www.wnba.com/sparks) have built a WNBA dynasty around former USC star Lisa Leslie.

Bicycling

When you plan to bicycle in the L.A. area, consider the logistics of transportation, rentals, and your chosen terrain. If you plan to get to your bike route via bus, you can do so only if the bus has a rack on its front (if not, you're out of luck). You can get maps of L.A.'s bike trails and information leaflets on bus bike racks from the MTA or the Department of Transportation (213/580-1177) or through the Web site www.bicyclela.org. A word to the wise: don't cruise deep into the national parks and forests by yourself.

For an L.A.-area overview, including maps and useful links, check out Los Angeles Bike Paths (www.labikepaths.com). For bike-route suggestions or a little company, you can get in touch with the San Fernando Valley Bicycle Club (www.sfvbc.org). Mountain-biking enthusiasts should visit the South Bay Mountain Biking Club (www.sbmbc.com); find a date-route rated for your skill level on this Web site, contact the leader for that group, show up with your bike and gear, and you're good to go. Gay and lesbian folks can check in with Different Spokes Bicycle Club (www.differentspokes.com) for info on recreational rides and events (it has a newsletter, too).

Any L.A.-area yellow pages will yield a bunch of retail bicycle shops where you can rent wheels, pick the brain of a savvy salesperson or customer, or at least pick up the twice-yearly Bicycling Event Guide. MyBikeSite.com (www.mybikesite.com) posts extensive national information, including good coverage of southern California. Also worth a look is the Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition (www.labikecoalition.org); though primarily an advocacy group, it also sponsors events.

The Pacific Coast

The most famous bike path in the city runs along the Pacific Ocean. The 22-mi concrete route from Will Rogers State Beach down to Torrance Beach, known as the Strand,attracts cyclists of all levels. They share the path with joggers, skateboarders, in-line skaters, walkers, and other nonvehicular traffic (although for some stretches, bikes have their own parallel path). Except for a couple of short city-street detours around the Marina del Rey Harbor and the Redondo Beach Pier, the sunny beach scenery is uninterrupted. The ride can be done in a long leisurely afternoon, with plenty of time for stops along the way: rest assured that there's more than enough to see to make the round-trip worthwhile. You can rent a bike at one of many shops along the Strand's middle section between Santa Monica and Venice. Cyclists often refer to the 18.4-mi section south of the Santa Monica Pier as the South Bay Bicycle Trail.

South of the Strand, following the brief and pathless "RAT" (Right After Torrance) beach, is a 23-mi loop with a good sightline of the winding hills and clear ocean views on the relatively untrammeled Palos Verdes Peninsula. The trip, which takes at least three hours, is best attempted on a temperate morning when fog isn't obscuring the ocean. Marked bike lanes come and go, so be careful.

Other Excursions

Nod to the brown pelicans in the wetlands as you cruise westward along the Ballona Creek path from National and Jefferson boulevards in Culver City; you can hook up with the Strand at the other end. Santa Monica's San Vicente Boulevard has a wide, 3-mi cycling lane that parallels the sidewalk. Balboa Park,in the San Fernando Valley, is another haven for two-wheelers, although beware after a heavy rain; it'll be flooded. The flat, 3-mi paved path around Lake Hollywood is a great place to take in views of the Hollywood sign. Griffith Park, Malibu Creek State Park, and Topanga State Park are all part of the Santa Monica Mountains,which have good mountain-biking paths. Griffith Park also has a flat family-friendly 4.7-mi path that runs along Crystal Springs Drive and Zoo Drive, then turns back along the Los Angeles River and ends on Fletcher Drive near the main entrance.

For some solitude and rural terrain, visit Angeles National Forest, in the northern reaches of L.A. County. The mostly flat and shaded Gabrielino Trail (626/574-5200 forest service) along the upper Arroyo Seco is a favorite of mountain bikers, runners, birders, and horseback riders. To get there, exit the 210 Freeway at Arroyo Boulevard-Windsor Avenue in Altadena. Drive three-quarters of a mile north and look for the small parking lot just before you reach Ventura Avenue.

Bike Rentals

Bike rentals usually cost $6-$10 an hour or $15-$40 a day. You'll likely also need to hand over a photo ID and credit card before cycling off. Double-check the helmet situation with your chosen rental outfitter; some places rent helmets, some only sell, and a couple charge a nominal fee if you're renting a bike for several days.

Perry's has three locations along the Strand: Perry's Bike & Skate (2600 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 90291. 310/584-9306), Perry's Beach Rentals (2400 Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 90291. 310/452-7609), and Perry's Cafe & Sports Rentals (1200 The Promenade, Santa Monica, 90401. 310/485-3975). Several locations of Spokes 'N Stuff (Griffith Park, 4400 Crystal Springs Dr., Los Feliz, 90027. 323/653-4099.) has a rental shop behind the ranger station in Griffith Park and two rental places on the Strand. Venice Pier Bike Shop (21 Washington Blvd., just east of Strand, Venice, 90291. 310/301-4011) rents bikes and other beach-sport stuff.

Fishing

There's plenty of freshwater fishing in the lakes dotting the city and in the Angeles National Forest. A license is required: they're available at many sporting-goods stores. (Out-of-state visitors can get two-day licenses for $18, or one-day licenses for $12.) The Fish and Game Department (562/342-7100; 562/594-7268 lake-stocking information. www.dfg.ca.gov) can answer questions about licenses and give advice.

Shore fishing and surf casting are excellent on many of the beaches, and pier fishing is popular because no license is necessary to fish off public piers. The Santa Monica and Malibu piers have bait-and-tackle shops with everything you'll need.

If you want to break away from the piers, sign up for a boat excursion with one of the local charters, most of which will sell you a fishing license and rent tackle. Most also offer whale-watching excursions. Del Rey Sport Fishing (13552 Fiji Way, Dock 52, Marina del Rey, 90292. 310/822-3625) runs excursions for $35 per half day and $50 for three-quarters of a day, with rod rental another $10. Redondo Sport Fishing Company (233 N. Harbor Dr., Redondo Beach, 90277. 310/372-2111) has charters starting at $55 for three-quarters of a day and $35 for a half-day. Sea bass, halibut, bonita, yellowtail, and barracuda are the usual catch.

Twenty Second Street Landing (141 W. 22nd St., San Pedro, 90731. 310/832-8304) leads an overnight charter ($150) that lets you stargaze while waiting for a bite. Day charters are $60. L.A. Harbor Sportfishing (1150 Nagoya Way, Berth 79 at harbor, San Pedro, 90731. 310/547-9916), which sails some of the area's best charter boats, offers excursions from March through December ranging from half a day ($38) or three-quarters of a day ($45) to two-day runs in summer. Rod rental is $12.

Fishing Fingers

The most popular and most unusual form of fishing in the L.A. area involves no hooks, bait, or poles. The great grunion runs,which take place from March through July, occur when hundreds of thousands of small silver fish called grunion wash up on Southern California beaches to lay their eggs in the sand. The fish can be picked up by hand while they are briefly stranded on the beach. All that's required is a fishing license and a willingness to get your toes wet. San Pedro's Cabrillo Marine Aquarium (310/548-7562. www.cabrillomarineaquarium.org) hosts programs about grunion throughout most of their spawning season. During certain months you're not allowed to touch the grunion; call the Fish and Game Department for details.

Football

For a city that lost not one but two NFL teams, there's a lot of football to be seen in the area. The L.A. Avengers (213/480-3232 Ticketmaster. www.laavengers.com) are the city's entry into arena football, playing at the Staples Center (1111 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, 90015. 213/742-7340 box office. www.staplescenter.com). Football fever in L.A., however, still revolves primarily around the college teams.

College

The USC Trojans (213/740-4672. usctrojans.collegesports.com) play at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum (3939 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, 90037. 213/748-6136), both a state and federal historic landmark. After a short-lived threat to decamp to the Rose Bowl in 2007, the Trojans agreed to remain at the venerable field. The UCLA Bruins (310/825-2101. uclabruins.collegesports.com) pack 'em in at the Rose Bowl (1010 Rose Bowl Dr., Pasadena, 91103. 626/449-7673). Every year, the two teams face off in one of college football's oldest and most exciting rivalries.

Golf

The City Parks and Recreation Department lists seven public 18-hole courses in Los Angeles, and L.A. County runs some good ones, too. Rancho Park Golf Course (10460 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A, 90064. 310/838-7373) is one of the most heavily played links in the country. It's a beautifully designed course, but the towering pines present an obstacle for those who slice or hook. There's a two-level driving range, a 9-hole pitch 'n' putt, a snack bar, and a pro shop where you can rent clubs.

Several good public courses are in the San Fernando Valley. The Sepulveda Golf Complex (16821 Burbank Blvd., Encino, 91436. 818/995-1170) has the Balboa course (par 70) and the longer Encino course (par 72), plus a driving range. Five lakes and occasional wildlife spottings make the Woodley Lakes Golf Course (6331 Woodley Ave., Van Nuys, 91406. 818/780-6886) fairly scenic. It's flat and thus somewhat forgiving, but the back 9 is more challenging, with only one par 4 under 400 yards.

If you want a scenic course, the county-run, par-71 Los Verdes Golf Course (7000 W. Los Verdes Dr., Rancho Palos Verdes, 90075. 310/377-7370) has fierce scenery. You get a cliff-top view of the ocean—time it right and you can watch the sun set behind Catalina Island.

Griffith Park has two splendid 18-hole courses along with a challenging 9-hole course. Harding Municipal Golf Course and Wilson Municipal Golf Course (4900 Griffith Park Dr., Los Feliz, 90027. 323/663-2555) are about 1½ mi inside the park entrance, at Riverside Drive and Los Feliz Boulevard. Bridle paths surround the outer fairways, and the San Gabriel Mountains make a scenic background. The 9-hole Roosevelt Municipal Golf Course (2650 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, 90027. 323/665-2011) can be reached through the park's Vermont Avenue entrance.

Sitting on landfill, the Scholl Canyon Golf Club (3800 E. Glenoaks Blvd., Glendale, 91206. 818/243-4100) may only be a par 60, but it's fun and challenging, attractive for its top condition as well as its ups and downs and elevated views. You may recall the 9-hole pitch 'n' putt Los Feliz Municipal Golf Course (3207 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Feliz, 90039. 323/663-7758) from the movie Swingers. The Holmby Park Pitch 'n' Putt (601 Club View Dr., near Beverly Glen, 90024. 310/276-1604) is truly cozy: the longest hole is 68 yards.

For those who love to watch the pros in action, the hot golf ticket in town each February is the PGA Nissan Open (800/752-6736). The $6.2 million purse attracts the best golfers in the world to its week of competition at the Riviera Country Club in Pacific Palisades.

Health Clubs

Don't be fooled by the gossipy environment, pulsating music, and carefully arranged spandex that dominate many top gyms. L.A.'s gym rats take their workouts very seriously, visiting once or twice a day and discussing their body-fat ratios and cardio programs with anyone who asks.

If you belong to national chains, like 24-Hour Fitness or Bally's , you'll find plenty of branches here. If not, they and the many local clubs and chains in the city usually sell daily or weekly memberships. Meridian (1950 Century Park E, Century City, 90067. 310/789-1111) has a full range of cardio classes including aerobic boxing and kickboxing for $20 per day; there are also branches in the Miracle Mile and Beverly-La Brea areas. The state-of-the-art Crunch Fitness (8000 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 90046. 323/654-4550) is popular with celebrities for its expansive facilities. It costs $24 per day; for Chateau Marmont or Standard guests bearing room keys, it's $15 per day, non-hotel guests $25.

Probably the most famous body-pumping facility in the city is Gold's Gym (360 Hampton Dr., Venice, 90291. 310/392-6004.) In addition to using the two flagship locations mentioned here, local hulks turn themselves into veritable muscle sculptures at two additional locations in the San Fernando Valley and another in Redondo Beach. For $20 a day or $59 a week, several tons of weights and bodybuilding machines can be yours.

Hiking

"Nobody Walks in L.A." sang the Missing Persons back in the '80s, and it's as true as ever—but people do like to hike. With so many different land- and seascapes to explore, hiking is a major pastime for many Angelenos who crave an escape from city life, heading for the hills en masse on weekends, often with dogs in tow. From almost anywhere in L.A., you should find a fine trail a surprisingly short hop away. Remember, the region can be dry and hot at most times of the year, so take plenty of water and liberally apply (and reapply) sunblock. Hats and sunglasses help with hydration and UV protection.

The coast, the Hollywood Hills, and the parent range of the latter, the Santa Monica Mountains, are convenient getaways. If you're in the Pasadena area, you'll have easy access to the surprisingly wild San Gabriel Mountains of the Angeles Crest National Forest and the gentler San Gabriel Valley. Farther afield, look into some more extensive hikes in the Verdugo or Santa Susana Mountains. Don't venture deep into the national parks and forests alone. Griffith Park is one thing; the Angeles National Forest is quite another. Despite an active park ranger presence there, the Angeles Forest is rugged, parts of it are quite dense, and a person alone and injured could face serious hazards.

For information on hiking locations and scheduled outings in Los Angeles, contact the Sierra Club (3435 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 320, Los Angeles, 90010. 213/387-4287. www.sierraclub.org). Or, check out Outdoors, the quarterly calendar of events put out by the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (401 W. Hillcrest Dr., Thousand Oaks, 93160. 805/370-2301. www.nps.gov/samo).

Hollywood Hills

One of the best places to begin is Griffith Park (Ranger Station, 4730 Crystal Springs Dr., Los Feliz, 90027); pick up a map from the ranger station. Many of the paths in the park are not shaded and can be quite steep. A nice, short hike from Canyon Drive, at the southwest end of the park, takes you to Bronson Caves, where the Batman television show was filmed. Wildfires ravaged much of the park in spring 2007 and made some trails off-limits indefinitely, so it's a good idea to check with the ranger station before planning a hike.

For a walk, run, or bike ride, the Hollywood Reservoir (aka Lake Hollywood) Trail is probably one of the best spots in all L.A. The 4-mi flat walk around the reservoir provides great views of hillside mansions (including the spread once owned by Madonna, with its controversial striped retaining wall), the hollywood sign, and the reservoir itself. The park is open dawn to dusk. To get there, exit U.S. 101 at Barham Boulevard (near Universal City). Look for Lake Hollywood Drive soon on your right and take it, making sure you stay the course through its tricky turns. Park when you see the gate. The reservoir was built by the god of Los Angeles water, William Mulholland; its dam has a memorable movie cameo in Roman Polanski's Chinatown.

The 3-mi Mt. Lee Trail,which begins in Hollywood near the junction of Beachwood and Hollyridge drives, climbs 500 feet to L.A.'s most famous landmark, the hollywood sign. You can't walk around the sign, but you can get about 100 yards from it, which is pretty good for snapshots.

The stroll in Franklin Canyon is just above the northern reaches of Beverly Hills. Less than 2½ mi, it's often used by film crews. Pick up a map from the visitor center (follow Franklin Canyon Drive to Lake Drive, then turn right to find the Franklin Canyon Ranch House). Docent-led walks are also available.

Santa Monica Mountains

The Santa Monica Mountains are an unlikely swath of natural beauty that extend into the city. Although the climate is Mediterranean, the plants suggest more of a prairie, with golden grasses and gnarled live oak. Some of Los Angeles's best-known natural beauty spots, such as Topanga Canyon and Leo Carrillo State Park (with its tide pools and coves), are within the bounds of the Santa Monicas, or you can head farther out of the city to the wilder terrain of Point Mugu State Park.

Who knows how many of Will Rogers's famed witticisms came to him while he and his wife hiked or rode horses along the Inspiration Point Trail from their ranch, now Will Rogers State Historic Park (1505 Will Rogers State Park Rd., Pacific Palisades, 90272. 310/454-8212). The point is on a detour off the lovely 2-mi loop, which you pick up right by the riding stables beyond the parking lot ($7 per car). On a clear (or even just semiclear) day, the panorama is one of L.A.'s widest and most "wow" inducing, from the peaks of the San Gabriel Mountains in the distant east to the Oz-like cluster of downtown L.A. skyscrapers to Catalina Island looming off the coast to the southwest. If you're looking for a longer trip, the top of the loop meets up with the 65-mi Backbone Trail, which connects to Topanga State Park. And don't forget Will Rogers's sprawling ranch home, which is open for public tours Tuesday through Sunday; no reservations required. Malibu Creek State Park (1925 Las Virgenes Rd., Calabasas, 91302. 818/880-0367) has some of the best hiking in the area, and if you bring a swimsuit, you can take a dip in the rock pool. See the wild country that has doubled as Korea in the M*A*S*H TV show and as assorted alien worlds in the original Star Trek series.

Another way into the Santa Monicas is via the Trippet Ranch entrance to Topanga State Park (20829 Entrada Rd., Malibu, 90290. 310/455-2465), which gives you several options: a ½-mi nature loop, a 7-mi round-trip excursion to the Parker Mesa Overlook (breathtaking on a clear day), or a 10-mi trek to the Will Rogers park. Parking is $4 per vehicle. (Exit U.S. 101 onto Topanga Canyon Boulevard in Woodland Hills and head south until you can turn left onto Entrada; if going north on PCH, turn onto Topanga Canyon Boulevard—a bit past Sunset Boulevard—and go north until you can turn right onto Entrada.)

Hockey

The National Hockey League's L.A. Kings (213/480-3232 Ticketmaster. www.lakings.com) are sometime playoff contenders (though they rarely make it out of the first round) at the Staples Center (1111 S. Figueroa St., Downtown, 90015. 213/742-7340 box office. www.staplescenter.com). The Anaheim Ducks (877/945-3946. www.mightyducks.com) push the puck at Honda Center (2695 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim, 92806. 714/704-2500). Long an underdog team, they became the first Southern California team to win the Stanley Cup in 2007. Hockey season runs from October through April.

Horse Racing and Shows

Santa Anita Race Track (285 W. Huntington Dr., Arcadia, 91007. 626/574-7223. www.santaanita.com. $5-$20) is a beautiful facility that has the San Gabriel Mountains for a backdrop. It's still the dominant site for thoroughbred racing from late September to November 1 and from December 26 to late April; the centerpiece of the season is the Breeders' Cup in late October. Seabiscuit tram tours, covering the history of the legendary racehorse, are offered free on weekends from September to November. Hollywood Park (1050 S. Prairie Ave., at Century Blvd., Inglewood, 90301. 310/419-1500. $7-$10), next to the Forum, is another favorite venue to see thoroughbreds race. It's open from early November to late December and from late April to mid-July. Several grand-prix jumping competitions and Western riding championships are held throughout the year at the Los Angeles Equestrian Center (480 Riverside Dr., Burbank, 91506. 818/563-3252; 818/840-9066 box office. www.la-equestriancenter.com).

Horseback Riding

For adults and kids 7 and over, Diamond Bar (1850 Riverside Dr., just northeast of Griffith Park, Glendale, 91201. 818/242-8443) is a no-frills outfit charging $25 per hour and $20 for each additional hour. The Los Angeles Horseback Riding (2623 Old Topanga Rd., Topanga, 90290. 818/591-2032. www.losangeleshorsebackriding.com) has guided rides past the giant rock formations of the Santa Monica/Malibu Mountains Conservancy and through countless wildflowers nestled in the area's unique red soil, plus panoramic vistas of Catalina Island and the Pacific Ocean. There are also a variety of full moon rides.

Every day, 8 AM to 5 PM, more than 50 mi of Griffith Park's beautiful bridle trails are open to the public via Griffith Park Horse Rentals (480 W. Riverside Dr., Burbank, 91506. 818/840-8401) inside the L.A. Equestrian Center. Rates are $25 for one hour (cash only) and can accommodate riders over 200 pounds for extra charge. The Sunset Dinner Ride is a 1½-hour ride plus a Mexican dinner for $65. At J.P. Stables (914 Mariposa St., Burbank, 91506. 818/843-9890), the only limit to your riding time is the endurance of your wallet and your behind; the cost is $25 for the first hour and $20 each additional hour. Hours are 7:30-4:30. Rates at Sunset Ranch (3400 N. Beachwood Dr., at Griffith Park's southwestern end, 90068. 323/469-5450. 323/461-3061) are $25 for one hour, $40 for two hours (the maximum). Among the package rides is a Friday-evening dinner ride over the hill into Burbank, where riders dine at a Mexican restaurant (starting at $60, dinner not included).

A caveat or two: as docile as the horses may seem, they are not golf carts. Total newbies should stick with the easiest rides. Additionally, novice or not, you're wise to check (or ask the stable folks) that the saddle cinch is tight enough. Many stables have an upper weight limit of around 200-250 pounds. Some of the rental stables offer lessons, or you can go for the package (evaluation, five lessons, and a horsemanship class) offered at the L.A. Equestrian Center by the Traditional Equitation School (480 Riverside Dr., Burbank, 91506. 818/569-3666. www.tes-laec.com), for $315 (includes evaluation, warm-up, and lesson).

In-Line and Roller-Skating

All of the paths mentioned in Bicycling are also excellent for in-line and roller-skating, though cyclists have the right of way. The Strand,specifically the part of it that passes through Venice Beach, is the skating mecca of the area. Distance skaters can hook up with the Friday Night Skate (www.fridaynightskate.org). Every Friday night at 8:30 (weather permitting), skaters gather at the entrance to the Santa Monica Pier. From here, everyone zips off on a 10-mi route through city streets—you just follow the pack, behind the guy with the boom box strapped to his body.

Papa Jack Skate Park (23415 Civic Center Way, Malibu, 90265. 310/456-1441) is good for in-line and roller-skating and skateboarding. It's open daily; call for hours. To rent in-line skates, try Boardwalk Skates (201½ Ocean Front Walk, Venice, 90291. 310/450-6634). You can rent both in-line skates by the day or hour from Sea Mist Rentals (1619 Ocean Front Walk, at Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 90291. 310/395-7076).

Pilates

Many gyms offer Pilates on their regular class schedules, and studios specializing in this gentle-on-the-joints program operate in just about every neighborhood.

Owner Maria Leone takes a holistic, integrative approach to Pilates at Body Line Fitness Studio (367 Doheny Dr., Beverly Hills, 90211. 310/274-2716. www.bodylinela.com), which offers private and two-person training sessions and group reformer classes.

Novices love Pilates Studio City (11650 Riverside Dr., Studio City, 91602. 818/509-0914. www.pilatesstudiocity.com) for its patient instructors, discounted first-time client rates, and wide variety of group classes, from Pilates mat to stretch and conditioning.

Polo

Will Rogers State Historic Park (1501 Will Rogers State Park Rd., Pacific Palisades, 90272. 310/573-5000) was donated by Rogers's estate on the condition that the outdoor regulation-size field (now the only one in the nation) be maintained for polo. From April through September, games are played Saturday at 2 PM and Sunday at 10 AM (weather permitting). Parking costs $7 per car.

Rock Climbing

Los Angeles has several excellent indoor facilities, but you came here for the great outdoors, and there's lots of that to be had. In the San Fernando Valley, Stoney Point (Off Topanga Canyon Blvd. south of Hwy. 18 in northern Chatsworth, 91311) is the top choice, both historically—it's where Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard made his name as a rock climber—and practically, since the 300-foot-high boulders can accommodate all skill levels. If a bit of a journey, Vasquez Rocks is pretty surreal and offers good climbing for beginners and the more experienced. The area, named for the 19th-century bandit who hid out among the rocks, is in northeastern L.A. County. For more information, check with the County Department of Parks and Recreation (213/738-2961. www.lacountyparks.org). Near the Malibu Creek State Park visitor center (1925 Las Virgenes Rd., Calabasas, 91302), the Planet of the Apes Wall and the Ghetto Wall make for good climbing, but not for beginners. It's busy on weekends. The cliffs behind beautiful Point Dume Beach (South end of Westward Beach Rd., 90265) in Malibu are likewise pretty challenging and hopping on weekends. Check out www.rockclimbing.org for some opinionated advice on climbing in the L.A. area and beyond.

If you're a total beginner, for your own safety you're best off starting out at an indoor facility; and the best of L.A.'s have engaging routes for advanced climbers, too. One centrally located indoor rock gym is Rockreation (11866 La Grange Ave., West L.A, 90025. 310/207-7199. www.rockreation.com/lahome.html). It has 9,000 square feet of climbing space, with 24 routes on approximately 20- to 25-foot walls. Belayers (spotters) keep an eye on you and give lessons.

Running

Exposition Park has a scenic course popular with students and downtown workers. The jogging trail circles the Coliseum and Sports Arena, with pull-up bars and other simple workout equipment placed every several hundred yards. San Vicente Boulevard in Santa Monica has a wide, grassy median that splits the street for several picturesque miles. The Hollywood Hills' Runyon Canyon has a 3-mi loop with a steep section for those seeking a rugged run. The reservoir at Lake Hollywood,just east of Cahuenga Boulevard in the Hollywood Hills, is encircled by a 3.3-mi asphalt path with a view of the hollywood sign. Within Hollywood's hilly Griffith Park are thousands of acres' worth of hilly paths and challenging terrain; Crystal Springs Drive, from the main entrance at Los Feliz to the zoo, is a relatively flat 5 mi, and near its midpoint is a ranger station where you can get a park map. Circle Drive,around the perimeter of UCLA in Westwood, provides a 2½-mi run through academia. Running along the outer edge of the campus can enlarge the jaunt to just under 4 mi. Near several major hotels, lovely Beverly Gardens extends along the north side of Santa Monica Boulevard through Beverly Hills; bracketed by ornate fountains, its leafy paths pass by the Beverly Hills Library and City Hall and through a delightful, block-long cactus garden. Continuing around on Wilshire to Whittier and right onto Elevado, or at the other end up Doheny and left onto Elevado, yields a 3½-mi route. The 22 mi of bike path known as the Strand,along the coast from Will Rogers Beach to Torrance Beach, is a great place for a run—especially in the Venice Beach and Santa Monica sections. Beware of cyclists and skaters zipping by at high speeds. If you like races, you'll want to check out Raceplace (www.raceplace.com) in advance of your trip. The truly ambitious can check out 50 Trail Runs in Southern California , by Stan Swartz et al. (Mountaineer Books, 2000).

Tourism on the Run

Those who like to combine a workout with a bit of sightseeing will want to sign up for Cheryl Anker's Off N' Running Tours (310/246-1418), which takes runners and walkers on 3- and 8-mi tours through Santa Monica and Beverly Hills. The $60 tours cater to all fitness levels and include breakfast and a T-shirt. Check out www.offnrunningtours.com.

Skiing and Snowboarding

Cross-Country

Ski season in Southern California generally runs from Thanksgiving until Memorial Day. Idyllwild (951/659-3259. www.idyllwildchamber.com), near Palm Springs, has excellent cross-country trails.

Downhill

A relatively short drive from downtown L.A. brings you to good snow-skiing and snowboarding. Just north of Pasadena, in the San Gabriel Mountains, there's Mt. Waterman (Angeles Crest Hwy., Star Rte. 2, La Ca, ñ, ada, 91011. 818/952-7676. www.skiwaterman.com), which reopened in 2008 after new owners took over and made some improvements. It has three lifts and a range of slopes for beginning and advanced skiers. There are no snowmaking facilities, so call ahead to be sure it's open.

East of town, at the San Bernardino County line, is Mt. Baldy (909/981-3344. www.mtbaldy.com), the largest and steepest ski area in Southern California with 26 runs over 400 acres. Despite rustic facilities and limited snowmaking facilities, it's beloved for its varied and challenging terrain. Take the I-10 or the I-210 over the San Bernardino County line to Mountain Avenue, which you'll take north for 16 mi to Mt. Baldy Road; then continue north. Count on a two-hour drive from downtown L.A.

Big Bear (909/866-4607 visitor info line; 800/424-4232. www.bigbear.com), about 100 mi northeast of Los Angeles, is one of the most popular ski retreats on the West Coast, with a full range of accommodations, several ski lifts, night skiing, and one of the largest snowmaking operations in California. To get here, take the I-10 San Bernardino Freeway east past the city of San Bernardino to Highway 30 headed for Highway 330; that goes northeast and becomes Highway 18, which eventually goes around Big Bear Lake. The drive takes at least two hours.

Another ski and snowboard area in the vicinity of Big Bear is Bear Mountain (888/786-6481), where freestyle terrain tends to attract young thrill-seekers. To get to the lake, take the I-10 San Bernardino Freeway east past the city of San Bernardino to Highway 30. Then connect to Highway 330 going northeast; Highway 330 becomes Highway 18, which circumvents Big Bear Lake. Snow Valley (35100 Hwy. 18, Running Springs, 92382. www.snow-valley.com. 909/867-2751) has snowmaking capabilities, a kids' snowmobile park, and a designated sledding area. Mountain High (24510 State Hwy. 2, Wrightwood, 92397. 888/754-7878. www.mthigh.com), as do most of these areas, has lights for night skiing. It's also got a kid-friendly tubing park. The easy-to-navigate facilities and calm vibe at Snow Summit (880 Summit Blvd., 92315. 909/866-5766) make it a good spot for beginners, families with small children, and skiers seeking traditional downhill runs without fuss.

The Perfect Match

Soccer sensation David Beckham's decision to jump from Real Madrid to the Los Angeles Galaxy prompted a spike in the team's 2007 ticket sales and a buzz in Hollywood about his arrival along with his wife, former Spice Girl Victoria. Beckham's five-year deal will have him earning up to $50 million a year—or $90 for every second he's on the field—enough to keep the stylish English duo and their kids clothed in Dolce & Gabbana for years to come. An injured knee kept Beckham on the sidelines for much of his first season in L.A., but that didn't seem to hurt his stature among fans.

Soccer

The 2005 MLS champions, the Los Angeles Galaxy (877/342-5299. www.lagalaxy.com), play March through September at the new stadium at the Home Depot Center (18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 90747. 877/342-5299. www.homedepotcenter.com).

Tennis

L.A. Department of Recreation and Parks (3900 W. Chevy Chase Dr., Los Angeles, 90039. 818/246-5613. www.laparks.org/dos/sports/tennis.htm) has a complete list of the city's more than 75 public tennis courts. Some are always free, others only weekdays; others charge $5-$10 an hour per court, depending on time of day. Reservations are a must during peak hours at the most popular pay courts; to make them, apply for a reservation card (click on "Permits") at the Web site or call 323/644-3536.

The Poinsettia Tennis Center (7341 Willoughby Ave., Hollywood, 90046. 323/512-8234) is a pay-to-play facility with eight lighted courts.

West L.A. has a number of locations with well-maintained, lighted courts: the courts at Westwood Park Tennis Courts (1375 Veteran Ave., Westwood, 90024. 310/575-8299) are $8 an hour. The four courts at the Barrington Recreational Center (333 Barrington Ave., south of Sunset Blvd., Brentwood, 90049) are always free. And the 14 courts at Cheviot Hills (2551 Motor Ave., just south of 20th Century Fox lot, 90064. 310/837-5186) are pay-to-play.

Griffith Park has a dozen lighted courts at the Griffith-Riverside Pay Tennis Complex (3401 Riverside Dr., at Los Feliz Blvd., Los Feliz, 90027. 323/661-5318). There are a dozen unlighted courts at Griffith Park's Griffith-Vermont Pay Tennis Complex (2715 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, 90027. 323/664-3521).

La Cienega Tennis Center (421 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 90120. 310/550-4767) has 16 lighted courts available for $10 per hour; you can reserve up to four days in advance if you have a Leisure Services Card ($11 nonresidents; $10 weekends), which can be purchased at the center. Those who don't have the card can call ahead to see how busy it is.

If you're interested in watching the pros, the Mercedes Benz Cup (Formerly the Infiniti Open. 310/825-2101 tickets; 310/824-1010 info. mercedes-cup.info), held in summer at UCLA, usually attracts some of the top-seeded players on the pro tennis circuit.

Volleyball

The casual beach volleyballer can find pickup games at beaches the length of the coast; more serious players might want to concentrate on the Santa Monica State Beach nets or those at Manhattan Beach (which has about 200 nets). If you're truly obsessed, contact the California Beach Volleyball Association (800/350-2282) to see about amateur tournaments (grass-court play as well as sand); its California Cup State Championship tourney is held Labor Day weekend.

As for pro volleyball (www.avp.com), the beach volleyball played by two-person teams, check out the men's and women's tournaments held at city beaches in June, July, and August. The Association of Volleyball Professionals is the best place for information.

Water Sports

Boating, Kayaking, and Jet Skiing

Long Beach Windsurf & Kayak Center (3850 E. Ocean Blvd., near Belmont Pier, Long Beach, 90803. 562/433-1014) gives kayaking and stand-up paddleboard lessons starting at $90 for 1½ hours and in-line skating lessons ($45 an hour). For boat and Jet Ski rentals, call Offshore Water Sports (419 E. Shoreline Dr., Rainbow Harbor, Long Beach, 90802. 562/436-1996). Marina Boat Rentals (13719 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 90292. 310/574-2822), behind the El Torito eatery in Fisherman's Village, rents single and double kayaks as well as speedboats, cruisers, and sailboats by the hour or half day for 15% discount. Malibu Mike's (29500 PCH, across from Point Dume, Malibu, 90265. 310/456-6302) has kayak rentals and lessons, as well as surf and paddleboard lessons, and kayak tours along the Malibu coast. Rocky Point Marine Fuels (310 Portofino Way, Redondo Beach, 90277. 310/374-9858) rents single and double kayaks.

Scuba Diving and Snorkeling

Anyone who can swim can snorkel, but you'll have to show proof of certification to strap on a scuba tank. L.A. is probably not the best place to start learning scuba—the water's rough—but you can get certified at one of the dive centers listed below. Snorkeling and scuba diving require calm waters, and despite its name, the Pacific Ocean does not quite fit the bill. However, there's good diving to be had if you know where to look. Try Leo Carrillo State Beach in Malibu; Abalone Cove, Malaga Cove, and Christmas Tree Cove at Palos Verdes; or, a few minutes farther east, the Underwater Dive Trail at White Point, just east of Royal Palms State Beach, which winds by rope through kelp beds, sulfurous hot springs, and underwater coves. Farther afield, there are Catalina Island, and the Channel Islands, or go down the coast to Laguna Beach. Web sites such as www.ladiver.com can give you guidance.

If you or your diving partner is injured in a diving-related accident, the 24-hour staff at the U.S. National Diving Accident Network (919/684-8111) can help you find a doctor trained to treat divers.

All the scuba equipment (and diving lessons) you'll need can be obtained from the following shops. Most rent standard scuba gear packages for $50 and up (some do discounts for multiple days or weekends). That does not include basic snorkeling gear (mask, snorkel, booties, fins, and, optional but recommended, gloves), which runs about $20 per day (or which you may be required to buy, for $200-$300). Some shops arrange diving charters to Catalina Island and the Channel Islands. Most certification packages include an open-water training trip to Catalina Island, but ask about ancillary costs such as whether the boat trip and equipment are included, for example.

You might use Pacific Wilderness and Ocean Sports (1719 S. Pacific Ave., near Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro, 90731. 310/833-2422. www.pacificwilderness.com) if you're diving at White Point or Palos Verdes. Malibu Divers (21231 PCH, Malibu, 90265. 310/456-2396. www.malibudivers.com) may well be on your way to the diving area at Leo Carrillo State Beach, but be warned: its certification classes are so popular that rental gear may be scarce on weekends.

Surfing

A session with Malibu Ocean Sports (295 Heathercliff Rd., # 42, 90265. 310/456-6302) will keep you on the sand for at least 30 minutes explaining the basics. Lessons start at $100; if you don't catch a wave, you get your money back. Surf Academy (302 19th St., Hermosa Beach, 90254. 310/372-2790. www.surfacademy.org) teaches at El Segundo (Dockweiler), Santa Monica, and Manhattan Beach, with lessons starting at $45.

Kanoa Aquatics (45th St., Manhattan Beach, 90206. 310/308-7264. www.kanoaaquatics.com) teaches individuals and groups at Manhattan Beach, Venice, Santa Monica, and Malibu. Adult lessons are $110 and include equipment and surf yoga. They also hold highly regarded one- and two-week surf camps for kids ages 5-17.

Learners should never surf in a busy area; look for somewhere less crowded where you'll catch more waves anyway. Good beaches for beginners are Malibu Lagoon State Beach and Huntington City Beach north of the pier, but you should always check conditions, which change throughout the day, before heading into the water. L.A. County Lifeguards (310/457-9701) has a prerecorded surf-conditions hotline or go to www.watchthewater.com for beach reports.

Swimming

The first-rate Santa Monica Swim Center (2225 16th St., Santa Monica, 90405. 310/458-8700. www.swim.smgov.net) is open for lap and recreational swims every day (nonresidents pay $5). There's a separate pool for children and families ($12).

Inland swimmers head to the Rose Bowl Aquatic Center (360 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena, 91103. 626/564-0330. www.rosebowlaquatics.com. $10 day pass) for its Olympic-length lap pool. It's open daily.

Whale-Watching

From December to March or April, California gray whales migrate from northern waters to warmer breeding and birthing waters off the coast of Mexico. To get an up-close look at these magnificent animals as they pass close to shore, hop aboard one of the whale-watching tours that depart from Long Beach and San Pedro; prices are $9-$18 per person, and reservations are recommended. Bring binoculars, dress warmly, and be warned that winter seas can be rough. Or call one of the following tour operators: Spirit Cruises (310/548-8080. www.spiritdinnercruises.com) or Long Beach Sportfishing (562/432-8993. www.longbeachsportfishing.com).

Windsurfing

Good windsurfing can be found all along the coast. Reserve in advance for lessons. Long Beach Windsurf & Kayak Center (3850 E. Ocean Blvd., near Belmont Pier, Long Beach, 90803. 562/433-1014) provides lessons for $200, including gear and wet suit. At Captain Kirk's (525 N. Harbor Blvd., near Slip 93 of L.A. Harbor, San Pedro, 90731. 310/833-3397), you can get a basic beginner's lesson for $225 for three hours, which includes equipment.

Yoga

Los Angeles has nearly as many yoga studios as coffee shops, and most of them are quite good. You'll find schools teaching a variety of styles, including the athletic ashtanga (aka "power yoga"), flowing vinyasa, meditative breathing and stretching classes for senior citizens, pre- and postnatal workouts, and yoga for children; but most schools emphasize one particular style. Some do have more spiritual orientations than others, but this is kept generally low-key. Yoga Journal (www.yogajournal.com) is an excellent source of information for finding studios as well as yoga retreats and more information.

Ganga (Frank) White founded Center for Yoga (230½ N. Larchmont Blvd., Hancock Park, 90004. 323/464-1276) in 1967. To this day it stays true to his vision of integrating various strands of hatha yoga, such as Iyengar, anusara, ashtanga, and vinyasa. Golden Bridge (6322 De Longpre Ave., Hollywood, 90028. 323/936-4172. www.goldenbridgeyoga.com) is centered on the teachings of Gurmukh Khalsa, whose approach to kundalini yoga stresses the mind-body connection (yoga for expectant moms is a specialty). Sacred Movement (245 S. Main St., Venice, 90291. 310/450-7676) has a meditative feel without being prescriptively spiritual. Kundalini master Yogi Bhajan has made the focus of Yoga West (1535 S. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles, 90035. 310/552-4647) meditation, breathing, and asanas (poses). A large faculty and schedule help make Yoga Works (1426 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 90403. 310/393-5150) live up to its name; friendly staffers will help you choose from among classes in ashtanga, Iyengar, and "Yoga Works Style" (combining elements of these with vinyasa).



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