Gardens in Los Angeles

Descanso Gardens (1418 Descanso Dr., La Cañada/Flintridge, 91011. 818/949-4200. www.descansogardens.org) is a perfect place to come in search of wonderful scents—between the lilacs, the acres of roses, and the forest of California redwoods, pines, and junipers, you can enjoy all sorts of fragrances. Also be sure to check out the 600 varieties of camellias and the Japanese teahouse and garden. On hot days, the lush fern garden is a cool retreat. Classes (yoga and floral arranging, for example), night walks, and activities for families are scheduled throughout the year. The oak-framed main lawn is a lovely setting for summer concerts. A small train ride draws families on weekends. The garden's open daily 9-5; admission is $8.

While wandering the 150-acre grounds of the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens (1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino, 91108. 626/405-2100 or 626/405-2141. www.huntington.org), you can truly forget you're in a city. Just over the Pasadena line in San Marino, the former estate of railroad baron Henry Huntington sprawls out in an incredible display of manicured gardening. Among the specialized gardens are a rose garden with 1,200 species from all over the world; a walled Japanese garden with reflecting ponds, a moon bridge, and a bonsai court; and a children's garden of topiary animals, pint-size fountains, and mazes. The stunning desert garden bristles with yellow-spined desert cacti, giant South African aloes, and beds of fiery red and orange succulents. The newest edition is an elaborate Chinese garden and cultural center called Liu Fang Yuan (or Garden of Flowering Fragrance), which includes several hand-carved stone bridges, a natural rock-framed lake, a teahouse, and winding pebbled paths. The Huntington grounds are open Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday noon-4:30 and weekends 10:30-4:30; entry is $15 for adults on weekdays and $20 on weekends. Admission is free the first Thursday of every month (though reservations are required).

At the Los Angeles County Arboretum (301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 91007. 626/821-3222. www.arboretum.org), you can wander from a South Africa landscape to the Australian outback and even through a bit of tropical forest. One highlight is the tropical greenhouse, with carnivorous-looking orchids and a pond full of brilliant Chinese goldfish. The house and stables of the eccentric real-estate pioneer Lucky Baldwin are well preserved and worth a visit. Kids will love the many peacocks and waterfowl that roam the property. The Santa Anita Racetrack is across the street, but you'll seldom see it as you wander these 40 acres. To get there, go east on I-210 just past Pasadena, exit in Arcadia on Baldwin Avenue and go south, and you will soon see the entrance. It's open daily 9-5 and costs $7.

Word of Mouth

"I suggest a few days in Pasadena to visit the Huntington Gardens and Library, Norton Simon museum, old town, and to go for a hike in the foothills or climb Mt. Hollywood." —POlson