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Skiing

Alpine Meadows

The locals' favorite place to ski on the north shore, Alpine Meadows Ski Area is also the unofficial telemarking hub of the Sierra. With 495 inches of snow annually, Alpine has some of Tahoe's most reliable conditions. It's usually one of the first areas to open in November and one of the last to close in May or June. Alpine isn't the place for arrogant show-offs; instead, you'll find down-to-earth alpine fetishists. The two peaks here are well suited to intermediate skiers, with a number of runs for experts only. Snowboarders and hot-dog skiers will find a terrain park with a half pipe, super pipe, rails, and tabletops, as well as a boarder-cross course. Alpine is a great place to learn to ski, and the Tahoe Adaptive Ski School here teaches and coaches those with physical and mental disabilities. There's also an area for overnight RV parking. On Saturday, because of the limited parking, there's more acreage per person than at other resorts. Tickets cost only $46, a steal compared to other area resorts. 2600 Alpine Meadows Rd., off Hwy. 89, 6 mi northwest of Tahoe City and 13 mi south of I-80. 530/583-4232; 800/441-4423; 530/581-8374 snow phone. www.skialpine.com. 100 trails on 2,400 acres, rated 25% beginner, 40% intermediate, 35% advanced. Longest run 2 1/2 mi, base 6,835 ft, summit 8,637 ft. Lifts: 14, including 1 high-speed 6-passenger lift and 2 high-speed quads.

You can rent skis, boards, and snowshoes at Tahoe Dave's Skis and Boards (590 N. Lake Blvd. 530/583-0400), which has the area's best selection of downhill rental equipment. If you plan to ski or board the backcountry, you'll find everything from crampons to transceivers at The BackCountry (690 N. Lake Blvd. 530/581-5861. www.thebackcountry.net).

Incline Village

A fun family mood prevails at Diamond Peak, which has many special programs and affordable rates. Snowmaking covers 75% of the mountain, and runs are groomed nightly. The ride up the 1-mi Crystal chair rewards you with some of the best views of the lake from any ski area. Diamond Peak is less crowded than the larger areas and provides free shuttles to nearby lodging. It's a great place for beginners and intermediates, and it's appropriately priced for families. However, though there are some steep-aspect black-diamond runs, advanced skiers may find the acreage too limited. For snowboarders there's a half pipe and super pipe. 775/832-1177. www.diamondpeak.com. 30 trails on 655 acres, rated 18% beginner, 46% intermediate, 36% advanced. Longest run 2 1/2 mi, base 6,700 ft, summit 8,540 ft. Lifts: 6, including 2 high-speed quads.

Ski some of the highest slopes at Tahoe, and take in bird's-eye views of Reno and the Carson Valley at Mt. Rose Ski Tahoe. Though more compact than the bigger Tahoe resorts, Mt. Rose has the area's highest base elevation and consequently the driest snow. The mountain has a wide variety of terrain. The most challenging is the Chutes, 200 acres of gulp-and-go advanced-to-expert vertical. Intermediates can choose steep groomers or mellow, wide-open boulevards. Beginners have their own corner of the mountain, with gentle, nonthreatening, wide slopes. Boarders and tricksters have three terrain parks to choose from, on opposite sides of the mountain, allowing them to follow the sun as it tracks across the resort. Because of its elevation, the mountain gets hit hard in storms; check conditions before heading up during inclement weather or on a windy day. Hwy. 431, 11 mi north of Incline Village. 775/849-0704 or 800/754-7673. www.skirose.com. 61 trails on 1,200 acres, rated 20% beginner, 30% intermediate, 40% advanced, 10% expert. Longest run 2 1/2 mi, base 8,260 ft, summit 9,700 ft. Lifts: 8, including 2 high-speed 6-passenger lifts.

On the way to Mt. Rose from Incline Village, Tahoe Meadows (Hwy. 431) is the most popular area near the north shore for noncommercial cross-country skiing, sledding, tubing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling.

You'll find superbly groomed tracks and fabulous views of Lake Tahoe at Spooner Lake Cross-Country (Spooner Summit, Hwy. 28, 1/2 mi north of U.S. 50, Glenbrook. 775/887-8844 ski phone; 775/749-5349 reservations. www.spoonerlake.com). It has more than 50 mi of trails on more than 9,000 acres, and two rustic, secluded cabins are available for rent for overnight treks.

Olympic Valley

There are dramatic views from the pool deck at the High Camp Bath and Tennis Club (530/581-7255. www.squaw.com), where you can swim laps or soak in the 25-person hot tub for $26, which includes the cable-car ride; for $3 more you can ice-skate, too. Prices drop after 5.

South Lake Tahoe

Straddling two states, vast Heavenly Mountain Resort -- composed of nine peaks, two valleys, and four base-lodge areas, along with the largest snowmaking system in the western United States -- has terrain for every skier. Beginners can choose wide, well-groomed trails, accessed from the California Lodge or the gondola from downtown South Lake Tahoe; kids have short and gentle runs in the Enchanted Forest area all to themselves. The Sky Express high-speed quad chair whisks intermediate and advanced skiers to the summit for wide cruisers or steep tree-skiing. Mott and Killebrew canyons draw experts to the Nevada side for steep chutes and thick-timber slopes. For snowboarders and tricksters, there are a whopping five terrain parks, including an enormous 22-foot super pipe. The ski school is big and offers everything from learn-to-ski packages to canyon-adventure tours. Call about ski and boarding camps. Skiing lessons are available for children ages 4 and up; there's day care for infants older than six weeks. Ski Run Blvd., off Hwy. 89, U.S. 50, Stateline, NV. 775/586-7000 or 800/432-8365. www.skiheavenly.com. 91 trails on 4,800 acres, rated 20% beginner, 45% intermediate, 35% expert. Longest run 5 1/2 mi, base 6,540 ft, summit 10,067 ft. Lifts: 30, including 1 aerial tram, 1 gondola, 2 high-speed 6-passenger lifts, and 6 high-speed quads.

Thirty-six miles south of Lake Tahoe, Kirkwood Ski Resort is the hard-core skiers' and boarders' favorite south-shore mountain, known for its craggy gulp-and-go chutes, sweeping cornices, steep-aspect glade skiing, and high base elevation. But there's also fantastic terrain for newbies and intermediates down wide-open bowls, through wooded gullies, and along rolling tree-lined trails. Tricksters can show off in the Stomping Grounds terrain park on jumps, wall rides, rails, and a half pipe, all visible from the base area. The mountain gets hammered with more than 500 inches of snow annually, and often has the most in all of North America. If you're into out-of-bounds skiing, check out Expedition Kirkwood, a backcountry-skills program that teaches basic safety awareness. Kirkwood is also the only Tahoe resort to offer Cat-skiing. If you're into cross-country, the resort has 80 km (50 mi) of superb groomed-track skiing, with skating lanes, instruction, and rentals. Nonskiers can snowshoe, snow-skate, ice-skate, and go dogsledding or snow-tubing. The children's ski school has programs for ages 4 to 12, and there's day care for children 2 to 6 years old. Hwy. 88, 14 mi west of Hwy. 89. 209/258-6000 downhill; 209/258-7248 cross-country; 209/258-7000 lodging information; 209/258-3000 snow phone. www.kirkwood.com. 65 trails on 2,300 acres, rated 15% beginner, 50% intermediate, 20% advanced, 15% expert. Longest run 2 1/2 mi, base 7,800 ft, summit 9,800 ft. Lifts: 12, including 2 high-speed quads.

Often overlooked by skiers and boarders rushing to Heavenly or Kirkwood, Sierra-at-Tahoe has meticulously groomed intermediate slopes, some of the best tree-skiing in California, and gated backcountry access. Extremely popular with local snowboarders, Sierra also has five terrain parks, including a super pipe with 17-foot walls. For nonskiers there's a snow-tubing hill. Sierra has a low-key atmosphere that's great for families. 12 mi from South Lake Tahoe off U.S. 50, near Echo Summit. 530/659-7453. www.sierraattahoe.com. 46 trails on 2,000 acres, rated 25% beginner, 50% intermediate, 25% advanced. Longest run 2 1/2 mi, base 6,640 ft, summit 8,852 ft. Lifts: 12, including 3 high-speed quads.

Operating from a yurt at Pickett's Junction, Hope Valley Cross Country (Hwy. 88, at Hwy. 89, Hope Valley. 530/694-2266. www.hopevalleyoutdoors.com) provides lessons and equipment rentals to prepare you for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. The outfit has 50 mi of trails through Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, 10 of which are groomed.

If you don't want to pay the high cost of rental equipment at the resorts, you'll find reasonable prices and expert advice at Tahoe Sports Ltd. (Downhill:, 4000 Lake Tahoe Blvd. 530/542-4000. www.tahoesportsltd.com. Cross-Country and telemark: South Y Center, Hwy. 89 and U.S. 50. 530/544-2284). Downhill enthusiasts can get regular and demo-package downhill skis and snowboards, and cross-country skiers can get information on local trails.