The look may be old-school romance, with candlelit tables in an 1884 fieldstone building, but the cooking is deliciously of the moment. Chef Hiro Sone juices up Italian and southern-French cuisine with unexpected twists, in dishes such as sweetbreads with braised endive, burdock, and black truffle sauce. A few, like the sake-marinated black cod in a shiso broth, draw on Sone's Japanese background. Inventive desserts, courtesy of Sone's wife, Lissa Doumani, might include a maple sugar crème brûlée served in a baked apple. Servers gracefully and unobtrusively attend to every dropped fork or half-full water glass; they're head and shoulders above the enthusiastic but inexpert staff you can find at many other local restaurants.
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