Wine Country Know-How

Wine Country Know-How

Getting Oriented

The Napa and Sonoma valleys run roughly parallel, northwest to southeast, and are separated by the Mayacamas Mountains. Northwest of the Sonoma Valley are several more important viticultural areas in Sonoma County, including Dry Creek, Alexander Valley, and the Russian River Valley. The Carneros region, which spans southern Sonoma and Napa counties, is just north of San Pablo Bay, and the closest of all these wine regions to San Francisco.

Napa Valley. Big names all around, from high-profile wineries to world-renowned chefs. Napa, the valley's oldest town, sweet-life St. Helena, and down-to-earth Calistoga all make good home bases here. (Calistoga has the extra draw of local thermal springs.) Yountville has become a culinary boomtown, while the tiny communities of Oakville and Rutherford are surrounded by major vintners like Robert Mondavi and Francis Ford Coppola. Rutherford in particular is the source for outstanding cabernet sauvignon.

Sonoma Valley. Historic resonance and an unpretentious attitude. The town of Sonoma, with its atmospheric central plaza, is rich with 19th-century buildings. Glen Ellen, meanwhile, has a special connection with author Jack London.

Elsewhere in Sonoma. The lovely Russian River, Dry Creek, and Alexander valleys are all excellent places to seek out pinot noir, zinfandel, and chardonnay. (The winding, rural roads here feel a world away from the main drag through Napa.) The small town of Healdsburg is getting lots of attention lately, thanks to its terrific restaurants, B&Bs, and chic boutiques.

Getting Around

Driving your own car is by far the best way to explore the Wine Country. Well-maintained roads zip through the centers of the Napa and Sonoma valleys, while scenic routes thread through the backcountry. Distances between towns are fairly short and you can sometimes drive from one end of the Napa or Sonoma valleys to the other in less than an hour—if there's no significant traffic. (However, it's not quite as easy as you might think to get between the two valleys, since they're divided by the Mayacamas Mountains.) This may be a relatively rural area, but the usual rush hours still apply, and high-season weekend traffic can be excrutiatingly slow. If you're winetasting, either select a designated driver or be very careful of your wine intake. Those sips add up. Local cops are quick with DUIs.

5 Hidden Pleasures of the Wine Country

Biking. Cycling is one of the best ways to see the Wine Country—the Russian River and Dry Creek valleys are particularly beautiful. Just remember that drinking and riding are a dangerous mix!

Browsing the farmers' markets. Almost every town in Napa and Sonoma has a seasonal farmers' market, each rounding up an amazing variety of local produce. Most markets run from spring through early fall, usually on Saturday mornings and sometimes on Tuesday evenings, too.

Touring the di Rosa Preserve. Though this art and nature preserve is just off the busy Carneros Highway, it's a relatively unknown treasure. The galleries and gardens are filled with hundreds of artworks. Book a two-hour tour to get the insider's look.

Canoeing on the Russian River. Trade in your car keys for a paddle and glide down the Russian River. May through October is the best time to be on the water.

Cocktails at Cyrus. Think it's virtually sacrilege to drink anything other than wine in this neck of the woods? Bartender Scott Beattie will change your mind. At the bar of Healdsburg's hottest restaurant, he mixes superb, inventive drinks with house-made infused syrups and seasonal ingredients like local Meyer lemons.