The neighborhood's not fancy, and neither is this restaurant, but in a town with a lot of gringo-ized south-of-the-border fare, this is the real friendly, real deal. Tacos rancheros—spicy, shredded pork pungently lathered with adobo paste—are a dream. So are the green-corn tamales, authentic imported machacado (air-dried beef), and chiles rellenos that are perfect with a margarita from the full bar. Don't leave without trying the sensational mole, a rich, exotic sauce fashioned from chiles and chocolate.
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