Haines

Haines is an interesting community: its history contains equal parts enterprising gold-rush boomtown and regimented military outpost. The former is evidenced by Jack Dalton, who in the 1890s maintained a toll route from the settlement of Haines into the Yukon, charging $1 for foot passengers and $2.50 per horse. His Dalton Trail later provided access for miners during the 1897 gold rush to the Klondike.

The town's military roots are visible at Fort William Henry Seward, located at Portage Cove just south of town. For 17 years (1923-39) prior to World War II, the post, renamed Chilkoot Barracks in commemoration of the gold-rush route, was the only military base in the territory. The fort's buildings and grounds are now part of a National Historic Landmark.

Today the Haines-Fort Seward community is recognized for the native dance and art center at Fort Seward; the Haines Public Library (which, in 2005, was named Best Small Library in the United States); as well as for the superb fishing, camping, and outdoor recreation to be found at Chilkoot Lake, Portage Cove, Mosquito Lake, and Chilkat State Park on the shores of Chilkat Inlet. Northwest of the city is the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. Thousands of eagles come here each winter to feed on a late run of chum salmon, making it one of Alaska's premier bird-watching sites.

The downtown area feels as small as a postage stamp, and the town exudes a down-home friendliness. Perhaps this is because Haines sees fewer cruise ships, or maybe it's the grand landscape and ease of access to the mountains and sea. Whatever the cause, visitors should be prepared for a relative lack of souvenir and T-shirt shops compared to other ports. Local weather is drier than in much of Southeast Alaska.

Haines has adopted a nonsmoking ordinance that went into effect in 2010. Smoking is banned in all businesses including bars, restaurants, and shops. Accommodations are allowed to have smoking rooms; be sure to reserve a smoking room if it is needed.

Walking Around Haines

A walk through downtown Haines is best started at the helpful Haines Convention and Visitors Bureau on 2nd and Willard streets, where you can pick up a walking-tour brochure. To learn a bit about the area's natural and cultural history, head to the Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center on Main Street. From here, you can see the busy docks of Portage Cove, filled with commercial fishing boats and pleasure craft. Head down the hill (turning right on Front Street) to follow the shoreline 0.25 mi to Lookout Park, a fine place to take in the view on a sunny day—which, in Haines, occurs more often than you might guess. Just up the hill from here is a small cemetery with graves dating from the 1880s. From the cemetery, steps emerge on Mission Street; follow it to 2nd Avenue, where a left turn will bring you to American Bald Eagle Foundation, a museum and research center for these majestic birds. Another 0.3 mi out 2nd Avenue is perhaps the most interesting sight in Haines: Ft. William H. Seward National Historic Landmark. As you enter the grounds, you'll pass Hotel Halsingland, originally the commanding officers' quarters. Circle the parade ground if you like, passing the line of officers' homes along the top, stopping in at Alaska Indian Arts, housed within the old fort hospital.