Don't be put off by the tour buses in the parking lot: this large circular room with art deco rosewood booths and a 180-degree view over the sailboats of the Oak Bay Marina has a chef with a deft hand for seafood. Grills and pastas are on the menu, but it's on the fresh sheet, offering such local catches as ling cod, trout, and, of course, wild salmon, served lightly sauced and teamed with local, organic vegetables, where things get interesting. Starters, such as rock crab and halibut cheek cakes or Salt Spring Island mussels, a lunch menu of salads, pastas, and burgers, and an evening-only sushi bar also favor local ingredients. An attached marina-side coffee bar makes a handy stop on a seaside drive or cycle tour.
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