The tables are lined with white tablecloths and the waiters don black suits at this throwback to upscale Italian dining. Specialties of the house are homemade pasta and veal dishes, so make sure to check the daily specials—if truffles are in season, you're in luck. From the regular menu, the fried calamari is perennially popular, as is the vitello Valtelina: veal topped with tomatoes and porcini mushrooms in a wine reduction. If you can, request a tour of the
wine cellar; it's one of the largest in the city. Check out the dinner crowd: professional hockey players are sometimes seen here.