There's a cultivated air of refinement echoing through this ultraromantic hotel, a landmark on rue St-Paul named after Québec's most passionate poet, Émile Nelligan. The hotel, just a block south of the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montréal, occupies two adjoining buildings from the 1850s, with thick stone and brick walls. Penthouses have terraces with views of the river; others overlook the four-story, brick-walled atrium. All beds are king-size, and the bathrooms are big
enough to park your car. At the pub-style bar, Méchant Bœuf, try to snag a table near the window overlooking rue St-Paul and watch the world hustle by. And for breakfast with a view of the Old City and the harbor, head for the rooftop terrace.