Chez Doval is a neighborhood restaurant with a split personality. If you're looking for a little intimacy, book a table in the softly lighted dining room on one side of the building; if you're looking for something a little more raucous—guitar music, maybe a friendly argument about sports or politics—try the tavern on the other side. Foodwise it doesn't really matter where you sit. The chicken, sardines, grouper, and squid—all broiled à-la-Portugaise on an open grill behind the bar—are succulent, simple, and good.
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