L'Express is the closest thing Montréal (and maybe even Canada) has to a Parisian bistro. Service is fast and efficient—most of the waiters have been here for 20 or 30 years—prices are reasonable, and the food is good, even if the tiny tables barely have room to accommodate the crowds. The city's celebrity chefs congregate here for dinner after hours and breakfast before hours, which speaks volumes about the quality and authenticity. The steak tartare with french fries, salmon with sorrel, and calves' liver with tarragon are marvelous. Don't expect the menu to change—diners would have a conniption. Jars of gherkins, fresh baguettes, and aged cheeses make the pleasure last longer, as do the reasonably priced bottles of imported French wine. Kids are warmly welcome.