In the buzzing Hazelton Hotel, One has become a celeb-spotting free-for-all during September's Film Festival. (It also has one of the hippest patio scenes any time of year.) The modern and elegant dining room—rich woods, smoked glass, cowhide, and onyx—is the brainchild of designer Yabu Puschelberg. But thankfully the food lives up to all the razzle dazzle. Chef-owner Mark McEwan's ingredient-driven cuisine starts with playful appetizers such as a nicely caramelized and supple duck steam bun or the deeply satisfying Muscovy duck breast with foie gras and vanilla-stewed cherries. Many dishes, like the wild Atlantic halibut, arrive perfectly cooked but simply prepared and are meant to be accompanied by cauliflower puree and salsa verde. The all-Canadian cheese lineup is an especially proud menu moment. The chef ages his own beef, and many agree his steaks are the best in the city.