Claudio Aprile, heir apparent to the Canadian molecular gastronomy throne, eschews loyalty to any single trend or cuisine in his fun and funky domain, housed in a modern room with consciously rough edges. Choose four or five delicious and complex dishes (from a list of two dozen on the à la carte menu) that sound like mains but are appetizer-size, like a bowl of lobster bisque, lobster won ton, and coconut tofu, infused with lime leaves and chili. Lamb ribeye is crusted in pumpernickel and dried olives with a spiced eggplant sidekick; tuna sashimi is accompanied by an intriguing frozen soy sauce powder. Dessert may be a composed chocolate fondue with chocolate sponge and freeze-dried cherries already swimming in the luscious mix. A 15-20 course set menu is only served at an enclosed, semi-private table in the kitchen.
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