Toshi caters to lovers of both raw and cooked Japanese food in a simple, well-kept dining room with small tables, lightly-colored walls, and hanging lanterns. The daily lunch special is an implausibly good deal: C$12.50 for a warming miso and a bento box loaded with al dente green beans in luscious sesame-mirin sauce, crunchy shrimp and vegetable tempura, ginger-tinged green salad, proper sticky rice topped with chicken teriyaki, and orange wedges to finish. Don't bypass
the stellar sushi lineup, including European-influenced torched foie gras or tempura-battered crab croquette, and chef's specials such as tuna carpaccio and crispy flounder. Call ahead for the omakase (chef's choice) menu and join the in-the-know Japanese businesspeople at the eight-seat bar at the back.