The service is formal in Lai Wah Heen's elegant dining room topped with a sculpted ceiling and surrounded with etched-glass turntables and silver serving dishes. Here mahogany-color Peking duck is wheeled in on a trolley and presented with panache as it's cut into paper-thin slices. Excellent choices from the 100-dish inventory include wok-fried shredded beef tenderloin with sun-dried chili peppers, and dried seafood delicacies like dried scallops with fried garlic on
a bed of vegetables. Dim sum is divine for lunch: meat–filled morsels and translucent dumplings burst with juicy fillings of shark's fin sprinkled with bright-red lobster roe and in shrimp dumplings with green tops reminiscent of baby bok choy.