Easily one of the city's hippest upscale establishments, the Press Gang prepares fish and meat with equal panache. You can start with crab dumplings or oysters on the half shell, complemented by a glass of muscadet from the well-stocked cellar, then tuck into prosciutto-wrapped halibut with roasted vegetables and a red-pepper jalapeño reduction, or herb-crusted rack of lamb. Or simply let the chef present his four-course tasting menu (C$150 for two). Thick, cold stone
walls testify to the building's era (1759), but comfy seating and intimate lighting soften the effect. A trio plays classic rock, Motown, and New Orleans jazz on Friday and Saturday nights.