Newfoundland and Labrador Sights

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Change Islands and Fogo Island

Change Islands and Fogo Island Review

Modernity arrived late here, and old expressions and accents still survive, so these outposts feel frozen in time. Change Islands (www.changeislands.ca), a town with outbuildings built on outcroppings and on stilts, is a nice place for a quiet walk. Fogo Island is known for its hiking trails, including Brimstone Head, one of the four corners of the earth according to the Flat Earth Society. More recently Fogo Island has begun to reinvent itself with many modern artist studios and arts-residency projects (www.shorefast.org). The town of Tilting, on Fogo's far end, is famous for its "vernacular" architecture—two-story houses with typically one of three floor plans. The Dwyer Fishing Premises won an award for preservation of the architectural heritage of Newfoundland and Labrador and is part of the Tilting National Historic Site (709/266–1320, www.townoftilting.com), along with the Lane House Museum, the Old Irish Cemetery, and Sandy Cove Park.

There are about a dozen places to stay on the island, including the four-room Foley's Place B&B in Tilting (709/658–7244 or 866/658–7244) and Peg's Bed and Breakfast (709/266–7130) in the community of Fogo. If money is no object, there's also the Fogo Island Inn (709/658–3444 www.fogoislandinn.ca), a stunning ultra-modern edifice full of incredible art and design features, isolated on a rocky clifftop. All-inclusive is the only option here, and room rates in high season range from C$850 to C$2,950 a night.

To get to Change Islands and Fogo Island you must take a ferry from Farewell, which is on Route 335 north of the Trans-Canada Highway. Provincial Ferry Service charges C$18.15 for a vehicle and driver from Farewell to Fogo; C$4.13 from Fogo to Change Islands, and C$7.15 from Change Islands to Farewell, with additional fees for other passengers.

Updated: 11-15-2013

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