Excursion to Churchill

Excursion to Churchill

Towering grain silos attest to Churchill's history as Canada's northern port for grain shipping. These days, however, this remote town (population about 1,000) on the shore of Hudson Bay is better known as the polar-bear capital of the world. The bears congregate throughout October and early November; it's not unusual to see them foraging on the outskirts of town in summer, too, when special patrols often work overtime to steer the majestic animals back into the wild. Beluga whales, which come to feed in the relatively warm waters of the Churchill River, are another draw, as are the northern lights. The best time to see the whales is usually mid-July through mid-August, when the river's ice has broken up.

You can book day-trip tours or choose a package with accommodations, meals, and transportation to and from Winnipeg. Although Churchill has a local network of roads that stretches some 80 km (50 mi), you can't actually reach it by road; you either have to take a VIA Rail train (about 36 hours) or a plane (about 1,045 km, or 648 mi) from Winnipeg. Avoid the train in summer, when service interruptions are all too common. Polar-bear-tour operators usually employ vehicles equipped to withstand both the winter cold and the rugged subarctic tundra. Some companies focus on whale-watching tours instead. Whenever you choose to visit, book all arrangements—transportation, tours, lodging—well in advance; a year ahead is not too early, especially if you plan to visit during the peak October-November bear-viewing season.

Great White Bear Tours (204/675-2781 or 866/765-8344. www.greatwhitebeartours.com) offers polar-bear-viewing tours for both amateur and professional photographers.

Sea North Tours (204/675-2195 or 888/348-7591. www.seanorthtours.com) runs trips to see beluga whales, seals, and the area's 200 or so bird species. Snorkel with the whales for an experience of a lifetime; the company provides all equipment.

Tundra Buggy Adventure (204/949-2050 or 800/663-9832. www.tundrabuggy.com) uses specially designed vehicles that allow for comfortable polar-bear viewing in summer and fall.

Colorado-based Natural Habitat Adventures (303/449-3711 or 800/543-8917. www.nathab.com) runs six- to nine-day excursions that include transportation between Winnipeg and Churchill, tours, accommodations, and most meals.

Where to Stay

Aurora Inn. Within walking distance of Churchill's main restaurants and shops, this modern facility has spacious, two-story loft suites with fully equipped kitchens. The inn is open throughout the year. Box 1030, R0B 0E0. 204/675-2071 or 888/840-1344. www.aurora-inn.mb.ca. 22 suites. In-room: kitchen (some), DVD (some). In-hotel: laundry service, Internet terminal, parking (free). AE, MC, V.

Lazy Bear Lodge. This hand-crafted, log-cabin-style hotel has north-country charm in 33 rooms, each equipped with a private bath and shower. The lodge is completely smoke-free, including the restaurant, and is open from late May through November. Main St., Box 931, R0B 0E0. 204/675-2969 or 866/687-2327. www.lazybearlodge.com. 33 rooms. In-room: Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, parking (free). MC, V.