Working closely with independent farmers, the chef at this long-established favorite concentrates on such locally sourced products as lamb, duck, and seafood; quail and venison often make an appearance, too. The menu is based on what's fresh, but might include spot-prawn bisque with lemon and ginger; wild salmon with beet papardelle; or organic beef tenderloin. The wine cellar–like backdrop, on the lower floor of a historic building on Bastion Square, is candlelit and
romantic, with exposed brick, soft jazz and blues, and lots of intimate nooks and crannies hung with local art. The wine list is well selected.