French-country cooking shines at this informal Chinatown bistro, and the historic room—once a schoolhouse for the Chinese community—evokes a timeless brasserie, from the white linens and patina-rich fir floors to the chalkboards above the slate bar listing the day's oyster, mussel, and steak options. Sean Brennan, one of the city's better-known chefs, works with local farmers and fishers to source the best seasonal, local, and organic ingredients. The menu changes
daily but lists such contemporary spins on classic bistro fare as duck breast with chick pea fries and asparagus, or tuna with chervil aioli. Be prepared for lines, as this petite spot does not take reservations.