Lunchtime queues attest to the popularity of the fresh house-made noodles and wontons at this long-standing Chinese spot. The lines move fast, though, thanks to the efficient service. Szechuan and Shanghai specialties, from shrimp noodle soup to beef with hot-chili bean sauce, dominate the long menu, but Singapore-style noodles and Indonesian chow mein appear, too. The diner-style eatery is low on character, but the crowds of locals and an open kitchen keep things buzzing. Reservations are accepted only for groups of four or more.