Executive chef Frank Pabst features both popular and lesser-known local seafood (including frequently overlooked varieties like mackerel or herring) at this fashionable fish restaurant. You might start with Gulf Island scallops baked with tomatoes, olives, and capers; Dungeness crab and white asparagus panna cotta; or a seafood tower, ideal for sharing. Main dishes are seafood-centric, too—perhaps white sturgeon with beets, or arctic char with trout caviar and
pearl couscous. Ask the staff to recommend wine pairings from the B.C.–focused list. You can dine in the warmly lit interior or outside on the former loading dock that's now a lovely terrace. The sushi chef turns out both classic and new creations—they're pricey but rank among the city's best.