With sleek white tables and sparkling chandeliers, chef David Hawksworth's hotly anticipated restaurant is the kind of place where you can toast a new client or celebrate a romance. The food (and the crowd) is suave and swanky, too. A stellar starter is the yellowfin tuna ceviche tossed with avocado and served over toasted amaranth, but don't overlook the charred octopus salad with smoked potato or the quail paired with glazed sweetbreads and preserved lemon. Although
the menu changes frequently, mains might include grilled sturgeon with wild rice and bacon, handmade tagliatelle with walnut pesto and ricotta salata, or the popular crispy chicken paired with bitter greens and a sweet-and-sour vinaigrette. Look out, yoga-pants-wearing Vancouver—fine dining is back.