Sometimes you have to go the extra mile for an excellent meal. To reach this storefront bistro, which glows like a beacon in the emerging Railtown neighborhood, you have to go the extra kilometer—it's about a half-mile east of the Gastown Steam Clock. There are fewer than 30 seats, including eight at the communal eponymous table (and yes, there are two chefs in the open kitchen). The menu is small, too, but the frequently changing selections, which might range from classic
steak frites to a grilled boar chop with handmade gnocchi to pan-seared tuna with white bean and bacon ragout, are all well executed. At lunch, the place keeps busy serving up pastas, burgers, and rice bowls.