Chef Neil Taylor cooked at London's River Café before running the kitchen at this fine and funky trattoria. It's the space that's funky—a mix of early-1900s architectural details, modern furnishings, and oversize pop art—while the daily changing menu of updated Italian fare and the solicitous service are nothing but fine. To start, consider the ribollita (a hearty soup of cannellini beans and kale) or, for more adventurous tastes, the grilled pig's heart with
pickled walnut. The pastas are made in-house and include veal and fontina cannelloni or spicy spaghetti with scallops, mussels, and clams. Still hungry? How about halibut with an herby salsa verde, or balsamic roast duck? The lengthy wine list emphasizes Italian labels, but B.C. is ably represented. For a light bite, join the local crowd at Uva Wine Bar (Average main: C$17 604/632–9560 www.uvawinebar.ca) inside the same hotel, which serves pastries, salads, and pastas by day and Italian cheeses and cured meats until the wee hours. The staff is always happy to suggest wines to match your food.