From its art deco tile floors to its soaring tin ceilings, this Gastown dining room has been smartly outfitted in the style of the 1911 building that houses it. Yet even with this classy backdrop, it's the kitchen's choice ingredients—local, seasonal, often organic—that star here. Start with a charcuterie plate (the restaurant cures its own), then go classic with fresh oysters and hearty steaks or more contemporary with, say, roasted sablefish paired with plump squash dumplings or seared scallops atop a mélange of fresh peas and tomatoes. A lighter menu is offered in the downstairs bar, and the adjacent butcher shop/deli serves sandwiches midday.
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