Contemporary regional cuisine is the theme at this chic restaurant, one of the city's most innovative dining rooms. Among the kitchen's creations are fresh tomato jelly with Thai basil, Dungeness crab, and avocado; sablefish with butternut squash puree and white asparagus; and braised pork cheeks served with baby carrots and candied shallots. There's an extensive selection of cheeses and decadent desserts that might include a chocolate-coconut devil's food cake or poached peaches paired with maple ice cream, brioche cinnamon toast, and melted Brie. Marble floors, high ceilings, and warm caramel leather set into red walls make the space feel simultaneously energetic and cozy. Elaborate multicourse tasting menus and a good-value (C$49) early-evening set menu, served before 6 PM, mean plenty of dining options.
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