Vikram Vij, the genial proprietor of Vancouver's most innovative Indian restaurant, uses local ingredients to create exciting takes on South Asian cuisine. The dishes, such as lamb "popsicles" in a creamy fenugreek-scented curry, or black-eyed peas served on a pilaf of brown basmati rice and vegetables, are far from traditional but are spiced beautifully. Mr. Vij circulates through the room, which is decorated with Indian antiques and whimsical elephant-pattern lanterns, greeting guests and suggesting dishes or cocktail pairings. Expect to cool your heels at the bar sipping chai or a cold beer while you wait for a table (lineups of an hour or more are not uncommon), but if you like creative Indian fare, it's worth it.
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