Central Italian cuisine shines at this family-run favorite. The signature Spaghetti Quattro comes with hot chilies, minced chicken, black beans, olive oil, and generous lashings of garlic. Mains include Cornish hen grilled with herbs, garlic, and spicy peppers; rack of lamb with a fig and Dijon demi-glace; and pistachio-crusted black cod with roasted sweet-pepper sauce. Mahogany tables, chandeliers, candlelight, and a hand-painted floor glow indoors; a patio beckons in summer. The cellar has 400 wine varieties and an extensive grappa selection. The same owners also run the similar Gusto di Quattro (1 Lonsdale Ave., next to Lonsdale Quay, North Vancouver. 604/924-4444) a quick SeaBus ride across the harbor from downtown.
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