Cioppino, a fragrant seafood stew, is the signature dish at this lofty, candlelit room. Chef Pino Posteraro impresses with homemade pastas and such Italian-Mediterranean dishes as Dover sole with fresh tomatoes and basil, and spit-roasted duck breast in a savory orange sauce. Mr. Posteraro also serves more rustic Italian fare, such as veal scaloppine and braised beef short ribs, at Enoteca (1129 Hamilton St. 604/685-8462), a brick-walled sister restaurant next door. Both restaurants have street-side patios.
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